Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort - Washington, USA

This is Part III of the Washington Travel Series - Olympic Peninsula. Read Part 1 here. 

SOL DUC HOT SPRINGS
OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK

Lodging Reservations: https://www.olympicnationalparks.com/lodging/sol-duc-hot-springs-resort/

Permit Needed for Olympic National Park: National Park Wilderness Permit. Hint: bring that senior in your life who could use a bit of pampering. They’ll get the best price on a lifetime pass that will cover everyone in your vehicle: https://www.fs.usda.gov/main/olympic/passes-permits/recreation

 

IN QUILEUTE LEGEND, once long ago there were two great dragons, Sol Duc and Elwha, embroiled in an endless conflict, each suspecting the other of trying to take their territory. The tears they shed created two glorious and enduring hot springs that travelers from around the world enjoy. It’ll take guts to brave the WiFi dead zone, and a quick thumb to pull the trigger early on securing a reservation, but once you’re at Sol Duc Resort (Olympic National Park) just thirty minutes south of Lake Cresent on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington State, it will all be worth it.

We booked our trip ridiculously early, about eight months out, and were able to snag the Riverside Suite for a large party. Coming from the Seattle area, there are plenty of great stops to explore lovely coastal towns along the way: Poulsbo, Fort Flaggler, Port Gamble, which has an incredible seashell museum, Sequim, for lavender farms and groceries, and finally, Port Angeles, which will be the last major town at which to pick up supplies. You’ll next circumnavigate the dreamily beautiful Lake Crescent, a deep crystalline lake with dramatic peaks including Storm King rearing up along its shores. There’s a last stop you could make at Fairholme General Store at the Fairholme Campground on the far west side of Crescent Lake along Highway 101 West before you’ll turn south down Sol Duc Hot Springs Road and enter Olympic National Park. About thirty minutes down, you will see the sign for Sol Duc Resort on your right.

Everything is very well marked to get there, but once you enter the Resort, it can be a bit confusing. We arrived on a Saturday for a 4 PM check in late summer, and the parking lot in front of the main lodge was completely full. There are plenty of campgrounds around, and so campers will also flock to the Lodge to enjoy the hot springs after a long day of hiking. Visitors who aren't resort guests will have to reserve time slots to use the hot springs, usually in 1.5 hour increments. However, if you are a guest, you’ll get all day access to the hot springs, including special guests-only from 7:30 Am – 8 AM. Simply flash your wrist band and you’ll get a towel for each member of your party each time you head over to the springs through the main lodge. There’s a gift shop and a simple convenience store, as well as drip coffee for around $4. As mentioned before, there’s no WiFi—a phone is available at the front desk for emergencies.

Spreading out before the lodge are quite a few rows of cabins, which could probably hold up to four people at the most. If you have a larger party, you’ll definitely want to try and book the Riverside Suite, which is the large building farthest back by the creek above a workshop. It has a master bedroom, a bedroom with two twin-size beds, and a third bedroom with a queen. There is also plenty of space for additional party members to sleep on couches or sleeping bags in the three separate living rooms, and there is one full bath and one half-bath in the master. We had a fully equipped kitchen including fridge, oven, stove, and dishwasher, but be aware that this is all federally funded so it won’t be the Bellagio-- many of the appliances and the building shows its age, but for “glamping,” you’ve hit the lottery. Park in front of the Riverside Suite where the signs indicate (easy parking for two vehicles; additional cars would need to park behind them), follow a steep staircase up, and you’ll get the entire second floor to yourselves, along with a wrap-around deck and stairs down to a path to the creek. Breathe in that sulfurous air! You’ll also enjoy watching dozens of swallows dive and soar overhead.

·       Pros: walk to the hot springs, walk to a trailhead for the Lover’s Lane Loop, and within easy ten minute drive to the Sol Duc Falls trailhead if you keep going south down Sol Duc Hot Springs Road (this trailhead had completely filled up by around eleven, so get there before then!) Riverside Suite was clean, good temperature, and had plenty of hot water.

·       Cons: there were some safety concerns for little children (nails left out on the back deck), the handrail in the stairway is loose and poor lighting, the coffee maker is for k-cups only unless you fill a pod with ground coffee & cover it with foil, and we couldn’t find oven mitts. Our guests said the queen bed was saggy in the middle.

 

Sol Duc Hot Springs

Enter through the main lodge and branch off to the right to access the showers and the springs. There are locker rooms in the showers and plenty of places around the pool to hang your stuff. There are a total of four pools: the large cold pool (which floaties are allowed in; appropriate for all ages), a small wading pool (good for all ages; we had two toddlers and they loved it, even at eight at night), and two hotter pools—my favorite, the one with the fountain, and lastly, a mid-sized pool that gets up to 105 degrees Fahrenheit. It was clean and ambient. You’ll get a pool schedule that shows half-hour increments the springs are closed for cleaning.

Expect crowds during the day, but go early or the last session for seclusion. We ended up doing the 8 – 9 Pm session twice, and two of the toddlers with us, code names Eagle One and Flying Squirrel, got to enjoy the shallow kids’ spring all to themselves while us adults took turns dipping in the hotter pools. The warm water leaves your skin feeling silky and smooth, and we got to watch the stars at night and spotted a deer on our way back to the Riverside Suite.

Note: We did not try the restaurant at the Lodge due to seeing some reviews that it was not worth the money, but it looked very rustic and lovely for a drink outside under the lights overlooking the springs.

Sol Duc Falls

There are plenty of hiking options during the day. The full Lover’s Lane loop is about 5.8 miles and make sure to start off at the trailhead off of the resort so you can soak in the springs after!

We were looking for a kid-friendly option for Eagle One, Flying Squirrel, and for my own sake due to carrying the baby, code name Pink Pika. Sol Duc Falls was a perfect hike for all ages. There and back is about 1.6 miles round trip (we were considering a 2.2 mile round trip by adding on Lover’s Lane Falls but alas, the kiddos did not concur).

To get there by car, turn right out of the resort and follow the road past a campground nestled in old growth to the parking lot at the end of the road. Go early—the parking lot was filled by eleven. There is a bathroom there. Next you’re in for a treat as you descend into an atmospheric forest of giants straight out of another world. Dinosaur-shaped firs, dangling tree beards, and little bridges over bubbling creeks—Pink Pika was wide-eyed the entire time. When you pass an old shelter on your left, you’re nearly to the falls.

Eagle One leading the way.

After you cross the bridge over Sol Duc Falls, you’re greeted with a trail left or right. We took the left and found a nice secluded little sandbank by the river. This was during summer—likely this spot would be flooded in colder months. We enjoyed lunch and skipping rocks in the cool streams under the shadowy boughs before heading back. If you keep going left, you’ll find a neat tucked away little campground. We made it back with plenty of time to get in a nap and then it was back to the unspoiled beauty of the springs. Soak up and have fun!

 

 

Disclaimer: The above is depicted as fiction, not fact.

Backpacking Ozette Triangle: Sandpoint - Washington State, USA

BEACH DEER? SEA STACKS? Tidal pools & tire swings?

The Ozette Loop (9 miles round trip) on the peninsula of Washington State offers fantastic beginner backpacking trips or car camping at the Lake Ozette trailhead. Drive 81 miles west of Port Angeles, leave your car at overnight parking and embark on a short journey via boardwalk through coastal rainforest and skunk cabbage to a gorgeous coast full of finds for the curious explorer.

There are two trails that fork from the Lake Ozette campground trailhead. One goes north to Cape Alava/Wedding Bells area, where if you look closely enough, you can spot petroglyphs on rocky coastal crags. Walking along the coast south from Cape Alava can get dicey with slippery rocks, and since our party had an infant with us, we chose the other fork, the Sandpoint Trail. This is 3.0 miles one way to the beach, and then there are numerous campsites to choose from along the tree line or right on the beach. First come, first served, and if you time the weather right, you’ll get some of the best memories of beach camping.

I highly recommend camping near the water source: Wish Creek. After the Sandpoint trail, you break out onto the beach and walk south around the headland for about half a mile more to find it. The stream is tea-colored in appearance due to the leaves, and my husband swears it tastes like iced tea, too! You won’t want to add a lemon, though; make sure to bring your water filter, and the Park Service recommends boiling the filtered water, too.

We had an infant, and so we brought enough liquid Similac bottles and pouch baby food to last the trip. That way we didn’t have to worry about sanitizing bottles and burning through our fuel. The dirty diapers definitely added the most weight. One thing about backpacking at the Ozette Loop is you have to keep all of your food and smelly stuff like deodorant or delightfully pungent baby diapers in bear canisters. For a two night, three day trip, we got away with using two bear canisters. You can borrow them at the Olympic National Park Visitor Center in Port Angeles or buy your own. Stopping at the Visitor Center on the way in is recommended either way to check the weather conditions, get tips, and buy a National Parks Pass if you haven’t already. Backpacking requires a permit, and you can now print it out ahead of time. It’s kind of confusing, but here’s how you reserve a Backpacking Permit for this area:

·         https://www.recreation.gov/permits/4098362

·         Click “Check Availability”

·         Select “North Coast”

·         You’ll see different North Coast peninsula beaches and can choose to camp at Cape Alava, Sandpoint, or South Sandpoint. Avid backpackers may plan a longer trip down to Yellow Banks/Norwegian Memorial, but you’ll want a tidal guide to safely cross the headland

 

It wasn't all butterflies and rainbows. We did get caught in the famous coastal rain one night. We'd made the mistake to put a large tarp under our tent, which was great for keeping the sand out of the tent, but not-so-great at fending off the pooling rainwater. It collected under our tent and started leaking! Thankfully we were blessed with sweet sunshine the next day and were able to dry everything out. We switched for a smaller tarp and barricaded the sides with branches as well to divert water flow. If you have a tent with a built in tarp, that's likely best- and less weight.

Overall, our campsite was a top-notch pick. All of them are very well maintained, some coming with makeshift benches, there are even pit toilets, and the bugs weren’t bad in late May, even in the forest. We were right on the beach and our little one loved exploring the rocks and driftwood fortresses. We took her exploring and spent hours in the sun zigzagging up and down the sandy shores, hiking up a dramatic bluff at the Sandpoint headland which is home to several “beach deer,” and poking around tidal pools. We traversed further south and crossed larger streams; there was a dead baby orca that had washed up toward South Sandpoint, which was sobering.

Some of the South Sandpoint campsites hide higher up in the cliffs, but one, to our delight, even had a tire swing over the river. You never know what you’ll find out here; there’s always little sea treasures or backwoods paths to explore, and whenever the sun comes out in the Pacific Northwest, it makes the entire sea glitter. Sunset at Sandpoint was gorgeous, with cathedral-soft sun rays dancing over the far shores and dramatic orange brilliance showering you from the north. Granted, with our infant, we were all snug in the tent before it finished setting, but from past trips, seeing the awesome breadth of the star-studded firmament over the ocean at night is stunning. If you can catch a comet or meteor shower out here, it will be downright magical!

We’re already looking forward to our next trip. This has always been a favorite area of mine from childhood, and I'm eager to see our little one make more memories of her own here.

The above is depicted as fiction, not fact.

 

 

Poulsbo, Washington State, USA

 This is Part II of the Washington Travel Series. Read Part I here. 

POULSBO WAS BUILT TO BE A WRITER’S RETREAT. Not really. However, it is hard to imagine a more rustically charming coastal town that warms the moodiness of the skies with its Nordic flair and cheer. Hole-in-the-wall eateries, upscale Italian and seafood restaurants decorated with lights, and fun unique and quirky pubs dot the streets overlooking the tranquil Liberty Bay. There are alleys and murals to discover, numerous book shops, antiques, and arts and crafts galleries to explore, and the famous Sluys Bakery, where in a mere blink, will accumulate a line down the block of hungry customers.

The Scandinavian feel of “Little Norway” is ruggedly underscored with a lively pub life including many local folk groups and fish and tackle shops, as well as a small aquarium. The wharf is a gem aesthetically, where you can rent kayaks and leisurely peruse the gentle Liberty Bay. Keep wandering the waterline northwest, and you’ll discover the entrance to Liberty Bay Waterfront Park, which includes a waterfront trail that cruises up into the trees and past a beautiful historic building. The Victorian architecture in the northern hills overlooking the town complete the vision to have everything a writer could ask for to inspire the imagination.

In terms of dining along the Front Street area, Tizley’s EuroPub has a wonderful view of downtown from its balcony and boasts hearty Bavarian fare. A Some Italian Ristorante is an option on the waterfront with delicious pastas, right by JJ’s Fish House for those seeking a seafood option. It’s caught my eye but I’ve never had a chance to visit— The Brass Kaken Pub, adorned with said sea favorite cephalopod, right on the water. For a ritzy experience, check out Sogno di Vino with its classic fairy lights and open air patio. For seafaring rentals, check out Olympic Outdoor Center next to the aquarium SEA Discovery Center on the far southeast side of town.

Depending on activities, it is easy to spend half a day to a full day here in Poulsbo. We did an anniversary weekend back in the pre-COVID times when it was quite lively with festivities. Keep an eye out for events to attend, as there are many that celebrate the town’s Nordic heritage from when it was founded by immigrants in the late 1800s. The spring Viking Fest is said to be quite a good time!

Getting to Poulsbo, WA: There is a ferry route and toll road from Seattle if you head west toward the Kitsap Peninsula by way of the 305 or 160 (both approximately 1.5 – 2 hours). Alternatively, you can drive down I-5 South, take WA-16 W and then continue onto WA-3 N up the Kitsap Peninsula until you hit Liberty Bay. This is also about 1.5 hours but 80 mile drive one way. Coming back you can be prepared to pay the toll bridge for crossing Tacoma Narrows (with a Good-to-Go pass it’s $5; $6 without; $7 if you don’t stop at the booth and pay by mail). Keep an eye here for latest: https://wsdot.wa.gov/Tolling/TNBTolling/default.htm.

*The above is depicted as fiction and not fact.

Rialto Beach and Salt Creek Recreation Area - Washington State, USA

Washington State, USA - Travel Series - Part I

AH, MOTHERHOOD! I am currently experiencing the joys of welcoming a newborn into the world, which includes watching marathons of Netflix while this adorable milk monster goes on wild feeding ragers at all hours and turns her parents into laundry zombies. Currently with the entire Twilight series available on Netflix, I am working my way through Eclipse with two more movies to go. As such, my apologies for the pause on travel and book reviews as we learn to juggle this extremely cute but demanding infant 😊.

The paranormal phenomenon that is Twilight originates in Forks, Washington, where Stephanie Meyer made the Olympic Peninsula even more famous for its moody cloud cover and rainforests that hide secrets and monsters. In my travels there, I’ve never encountered wolves or vampires but something much cuter – otters! Among herons, anemones, starfish, deer, and bold raccoons if you can muster the courage to camp in drizzle. As such, introducing the Washington State Travel series. Let’s kick it off with two beautiful destinations – Rialto Beach and Saltwater Creek Recreation Area.

Rialto Beach, Washington – Hole in the Wall

Twilight fans are intimately familiar with La Push, home to main character Jacob and the werewolf pack of the Quileute Tribe. Off of La Push Road on the Olympic coast is Mora Road and the heavily wooded Mora Campground, which offers a great launch point to access many of the coastal beaches. A very memorable beach is Rialto, accessible along Mora Road and about 75 miles west of Port Angeles (around 4 hour drive west from Seattle). Rialto Beach is also directly north of the Quileute reservation.

You can reserve campsites at Mora Campground from May 26, 2021 - September 15, 2021 and find details here: https://www.recreation.gov/. The rest of the year it’s first come, first served to claim a site.  

Keep traveling west on Mora Road until you hit the coast, and you’ll find Rialto beach. There is a wonderful 1.5 mile hike to Hole in the Wall, a dramatic sea arch. Prepare to get a little wet depending on how high the tide is! Crabs, anemones, and seabirds abound. You can keep hiking beyond the Hole as well, or stop and enjoy the surf.

At the parking lot, take some time to look a little south at the reservation. You’ll spy Akalat Island, a sacred place to the Quileute Tribe. Deceased chiefs are put to rest in canoes cradled in the arms of trees. Look and wonder but don’t visit 😊.

Saltwater Creek Recreation Area & Crescent Beach – Washington

On your way back inland, there is plenty to explore. Saltwater Creek Recreation Area is a beautiful and atmospheric campground situated in the cliffs overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Located in Clallam County, Washington, travel along US Route 101 to discover this 196-acre park located 15 miles west of Port Angeles, Washington.

This makes for a fun 1-2 day exploring excursion and is a wonderful jump off point to plenty of hikes in the area. Salt Creek campground is RV and tent friendly, offering multiple options for small and large groups. You will likely be greeted by deer on your way in, and many of the campsites are dramatically right near the cliff edge.

Within walking distance is a trail that winds down to Crescent Beach. You’ll pass by Camp Hayden, which has concealed bomb-proofed two-gun batteries. It was built to protect the Puget Sound around 1941. It is recommended to duck into the batteries a bit ahead of your friends and find a good spot to scare them.

Another notable and fun beach exploration point off Salt Creek is fondly known as “the Tongue.” Most accessible at low tide, you’ll explore a medley of tide pools and discover urchins, anemones, chitons, sculpins, limpets, crabs, and blood stars. If you spot purple starfish, consider it a treat—they were once found all over the Pacific Northwest coast, but due to global warming and disease, have tragically disappeared.

Although it can be daunting to travel to the tip of the Tongue where waves crash, make the trip if you are able. We were pleasantly surprised to find a couple sea otters enjoying urchins and the surf. So if you have strong balance and heart, you won’t want to miss the Tongue—but watch your step out there. It can get extremely slippery.

The trail also wraps by this island, which you can access during low tide. We spotted a seal frolicking in the emerald depths off the island, and of course we had to try and climb to the top of the butte. It is a scramble that is not for the faint of the heart, and you’ll want to keep an eye on the changing tides so you don’t get stuck, but on top is a couple trails through the trees and salal berry bushes. Most exciting of all, we spotted two unexpected animals cuddling at the base of the island—river otters 😊.

These two were cuddling quite close for warmth and because they knew just how darned adorable it made them. Eventually they parted and shot off through the water as fast as bullets. It was quite a treat to experience sea and river otters on the same day!

Upon reaching Crescent Beach at the end of the trail, you do have to be careful, since Crescent Beach is considered private. However, that is only to the water line. When the tide goes out, it is fair game to explore. Do note that the private parking area is patrolled frequently, so your best bet is to walk down from the campground and visit at low tide. We did take a dip in the ocean—even during summer, we only stayed in an impressive two minutes!

Overall, Salt Creek is a fun family outing to explore. If Stephanie Meyer does revisit this area for future books, hopefully shapeshifting otters make an appearance.

Other Sights along the Drive: 

This is Part I of the Washington Travel Series.

Read Part II here: Poulsbo, WA.

*The above is depicted as fiction and not fact.